330 GT Registry

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Annual Maintenance

Maintenance on an older V-12 Ferrari is never ending.  First, when you have a car that is ~50 years old, things just wear out and break.  Second, one needs to be proactive in maintenance to help preclude the former.  These items are probably best done in the fall if the car is not driven over the winter.  That way, there are fresh fluids with no contamination to do damage over the winter.

Here are the items that should be done annually (or more often if you drive you car over 3000 miles a year):

  1. Change the oil and oil filters.  On the early cars with a separate bypass oil filter, Ferrari specified Fram PH 3 (superseded by PH 2815) for the main filter and PB 50 for the bypass filter.  For the later models with the single oil filter mounting block, dual PH 2804s (superseded by PH 2804-1) were specified.  There has been a lot of discussion about the quality of Fram filters over the years.  See Ferrari Chat for more information.  The general consensus is that the Fram filters are no longer as well made and that Baldwin or UFI filters are better.  In any case, do not use a generic filter that just happens to fit.  The oil pressure when the engine starts, particularly on a cold day, is high enough to rupture some filters.  Further, the mounting of the filters vertically means that the oil will drain out when the engine is not running.  So the first quart or so of oil just refills the filter and doesn't reach the bearings where it is needed.  The filters mentioned above have a standpipe inside that keeps the oil in the filter when the engine is not running.
    Ferrari recommended SAE 40W or 20W40 oil in the summer, 30W or 10W30 for spring/fall and 20W or 10W30 for the winter.  Given the usual lack of use in the winter months and the great advances made in oil technology, I run 10W40 in my car year around.  Synthetic oils are fine, but your car will probably leak more, and if you are changing the oil annually, the cost of the synthetic will be much greater with little benefit.
    It takes 11-12 quarts for a full change.  Do not use a 8 quart oil drain pan as I did the first time!
    Check for leaking from the front seal, around the timing chest and sump.

  2. Check the oil level in the transmission.  Ferrari specified 90W oil.  Inspect for oil leaks.

  3. Check the oil level in the differential.  Ferrari specified 250W oil.  Inspect for oil leaks, particularly from the weep holes in the hub near the wheel splines.

  4. Change the brake fluid.  The 330 was designed before silicone (DOT 5) brake fluids, so the seals may be incompatible if you want to use silicone brake fluid.  So I use a conventional DOT 4 brake fluid, Castrol GT LMA.  This is a Low Moisture Activity formulation designed to not absorb water as much as other formulations.  At the same time, check the brake pad wear and replace if necessary.

  5. Check the clutch adjustment. Also change the clutch fluid if you have a later model with a hydraulically actuated clutch.

  6. Grease all of the Zerk fittings.  Some owners change grease colors each time, so it is quite clear when the old grease has been expelled and the new grease is coming out.  I also put plastic caps on each Zerk fitting to keep dirt out.
    The fittings are located at:

    1. Middle of the king pins (1 per side)

    2. Forward ends of the inner A arm pins (2 per side).  Note, the grease should squeeze out around large O-rings nestled in Vs between the A arms and chassis mounts.  If an O-ring is missing, it can be replaced without taking apart the suspension.  See how this can be done.

    3. Top or bottom of the outer A arm pins (2 per side).  Note, if the lower A arm pin can't be greased, it is likely that the bushings are so worn that the pin is resting on the hole for the Zerk fitting and preventing the grease from entering.

    4. Front spring bucket pins (2 per side)

    5. Steering idler arm (1)

    6. Tie rod ends (3 per side, unless replaced with sealed ones)

    7. Drive shaft front (1, requires removal of plug and installation of the grease gun extension nipple)

    8. Drive shaft rear (1)

    9. Drive shaft universal joint (unless replaced with a sealed one)

    10. Rear spring shackle ends (2 per side)

    11. End of the accelerator shaft, under the driver's side distributor.

  7. Check for play in each tie rod end.  Replace if any play.  Note, there are LH and RH threaded tie rod ends, so get the correct replacements.

  8. Check the oil level in the steering box.  Ferrari specified 140W oil.  Also check for steering free play and adjust if needed.

  9. Check the fluid level in the power steering pump if so equipped.  Ferrari specified Shell Donax T6 automatic transmission fluid.

  10. If equipped with air conditioning, check for bubbles in the dryer sight glass with the A/C operating.

  11. Check the shock absorbers for leaks.

  12. Rock each tire vertically and horizontally to check for steering, suspension or bearing play.  Do this with both the suspension hanging and with it loaded, but the tire hanging.

  13. Rotate the tires and inspect for cuts or unusual wear.  It's a good time to check tire pressure too.  Ferrari specified 31 PSI/front and 34 PSI/rear for speeds up to 120 MPH and 37/40 respectively for higher speeds.  Do not forget to check the spare tire pressure too.

  14. Change the anti-freeze.  Note, there are plugs on the sides of the block that have to be removed to drain all of the anti-freeze.  Note, if anti-freeze doesn't come out after removing the plugs, poke something in the holes as there is probably a build-up of scale on the inside.  Open the manual heater valves and cable operated heater valve so the heater cores drain.  Inspect all of the hoses for softness, splitting or leaks.  Check for leaking from the weep hole under the water pump.

  15. Check the electrolyte level in the battery.

  16. Clean the ends of the ceramic fuses and contacts.

  17. Check that the headlights, parking, turn signal and brake lights are working properly.

  18. Check operation of the wipers and condition of the blades.

  19. Check the operation of the heater and defroster controls.  Close and open the manual heater valves.

  20. Check that the rear defroster (fan or embedded heat lines) works.

  21. Put a few drops of oil on the felt wiper blocks inside the distributors.

  22. Check the distributor point gaps.  Ferrari specified .014".

  23. Check the timing on plugs 1 and 6.  Ferrari specified 42° advance at 5000 RPM.

  24. Inspect the drive belts and check for tension.

  25. Put a couple of drops of pneumatic oil in the horn compressor.

  26. Put a couple of drops of oil on the door hinge pins.

  27. Fill the fuel tank if the car is being stored to prevent condensation in the tank.  Add Sta-Bil or another fuel stabilizer.

Of course, this is best done on a lift, but it that is not available, be sure to use jack stands to support the car safely.